Last month, we concluded our discussion on detailing towels, which are arguably one of the most important supplies in a well-run detail shop. Since a large portion of detailing involves using towels to remove residue from vehicle surfaces, the choice of towels for specific tasks can significantly impact the efficiency and effectiveness of each activity.

            Detail shops can choose between terrycloth cotton or microfiber towels, although most use the latter. The many characteristics of microfiber include GSM (weight), blend, pile, yarn quality, and edge finish. Yarn quality is the most critical factor, with poor yarn quality leading to inadequate towels, regardless of how they are rated in other characteristics. The detail technician will choose the combination of towel characteristics that best fit the task at hand.

            The main towel takeaways:
•          The professional detail operation requires a variety of towel types for the various tasks performed (e.g., drying, body panel wiping, windows, interior detailing, steam machine towels, ceramic coating, and utility towels).
•          It is important to have plenty of each type of towel.
•          The different towels should be kept separate when clean, dirty, and while washing.

            This month, we explore another critical piece of detailing equipment: the vacuum. Removing excess dirt and debris from the inside of the car before starting the interior detail work is just as important as a good exterior wash before detailing the outside. Choosing vacuum equipment might seem as simple as buying a generic shop vacuum from a big box store. However, for a professional detail operation, this could not be further from the truth. There are several factors that can make or break the efficiency and effectiveness of the vacuuming step, including procedures, store-bought vs. professional equipment, storage, hose size, and attachments.

Central Vacs

            Car wash operators are very familiar with the concept of centralized vacuum systems. A large detail shop (e.g., four or more bays) may lend itself to a central vacuum system, which can have several advantages over individual vacuum units.

            Central vacuum units are very powerful and are typically housed in a separate room, which removes the equipment and its noise from the crowded shop floor. It is essential to choose a system that is powerful enough to supply full suction even if all hoses are being used at the same time.

            With a central system, the vacuum hoses usually drop from the ceiling, helping to declutter the shop. However, dropdown placement can make or break maneuverability around vehicles. Often, installation plans call for the dropdowns to be placed between vehicles under the assumption that it is convenient for use on either vehicle. This is the worst place for the dropdown because it will be in the way of opening and closing vehicle doors.

            Instead, dropdowns should be placed toward the rear of the vehicles, allowing easy access to all doors and the rear compartment. Of course, the hose needs to be long enough to reach the front passenger compartments.

            How many dropdowns are needed? This depends on whether multiple technicians will be vacuuming the same vehicle (e.g., one on each side) at the same time. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of consulting with a detailing expert before agreeing to installation plans. Incorrect placement of vacuum dropdowns will cause inefficiency and frustration among technicians.

            The disadvantages of a central vacuum system include the expense of the initial installation. Moreover, with one set of machinery, if the system breaks down, no one in the shop can vacuum. Of course, this can be mitigated by having a supply of traditional shop vacuums in storage for emergencies.

Standalone Vacs

            When a central vacuum system is not practical, perhaps because of the expense or the shop is already built without it, then one must rely on standalone shop vac units. There are a range of choices here, and I will go through some of them and end up with a specific recommendation.

            NOT This Type of Shop Vacuum. A common quick solution to vacuuming is the purchase of a big box store generic “shop vac.” There are many inadequacies in these units. Often the included hose is too short or too large of a diameter to be practical for use in a professional detail shop. They are noisy, not very powerful, and break down quickly. I have been to detail shops where they have a back room full of broken-down shop vacuums.

            Shop vacuums with short hoses require the technician to move the vacuum around as the car is processed. The vacuum body takes up space on the shop floor and gets in the way of free movement around the vehicle. One solution is to purchase a hose extension so that the vacuum body can be placed in one out-of-the-way spot while the hose is moved around to work on the vehicle interior. However, most basic shop vacuums are not powerful enough to support a long hose and still provide adequate suction.

            Preferred Shop Vacuum. The key to standalone shop vacuum success is to shy away from inexpensive models. Instead, make the more prudent investment in a high-quality industrial unit that has excellent power ratings and features that contribute to operational efficiency. The most efficient and practical non-central vacuum I have consistently seen is a wall-mounted unit with a reel-stored hose that is long enough to access all interior areas of the vehicle in its staged position within the detail bay.

            With a wall-mounted system, the vacuum unit and hose are up and out of the way when not in use. The long hose allows the technician to move freely around the vehicle, accessing all passenger compartments without having to move the vacuum unit. When the vacuum step is complete, the technician can quickly roll up the hose, which removes it from the shop floor. A minimum of one vacuum set-up per detail bay is recommended.

            In shopping for the appropriate vacuum, look for these recommended minimum specifications:
•          Motor rated for continuous industrial use over hundreds of hours.
•          Large capacity HEPA filtration system with at least a 7-gallon bag capacity.
•          Around 140” CFM (cubic feet per meter) of lift.
•          Minimum 30’ long smooth bore crushproof hose with 1.5” diameter.

Air Purge Option

            Some detailing technicians prefer to add air purging to the vacuum step. This is simply using compressed air to blow out the inside of the vehicle. This is a practical solution to quickly clear debris from under seats, door pockets, and storage compartments in the rear or trunk of the vehicle. There are specialized blowgun attachments that create a tornadic vortex effect that moves debris quickly. Using a blow gun and vacuum in concert can be an effective combination to quickly remove debris from the vehicle interior.

            Introducing compressed air necessitates a discussion on the equipment variables for that air supply. This will be covered in a future entry in this series.

            Note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) recommendations limit the maximum air pressure to 30 psi at the tip of an air gun or blow gun used for cleaning. Moreover, technicians should be required to wear hearing and eye protection during use.

Vacuum Attachments

            I am unabashedly biased in this area, having for decades used a set assortment of vacuum attachments in my detail operation and training events. The attachments included in a basic shop vacuum are typically horribly inadequate for professional detailing. Higher-quality shop vacuums come with attachments that work well. Of course, one can independently source replacement attachments that will provide better results.

Summary

            The vacuum is one of the most important pieces of detailing equipment. Vacuuming the vehicle takes a surprisingly large portion of the total time on task for a complete detail. Thus, it is critical to choose vacuum equipment that will provide excellent performance. Moreover, the vacuum system can be set up to ensure efficient use without becoming an encumbrance to movement within the detail shop.

Editor’s note: This column is part of an ongoing series on “The 100 Questions You Must Answer” when considering adding detailing to a car wash. The first installment appeared in May 2024. The original 100 questions, which appeared in February, will be considered in depth in the coming months, one category at a time. The goal is to help reduce the common mistakes that are made when adding detailing at a car wash and to help those already offering the service evaluate their operational efficiency and effectiveness.

Prentice St. Clair, CD-SV/RIT, has been serving the automotive reconditioning industry since 1999 with impassioned consulting and training and the goal of increasing the profitability of the automotive detailing and reconditioning industry. He is proud to have been inducted into the International Detailing Association’s Hall of Fame. Prentice welcomes inquiries that lead to the opportunity to help readers achieve excellent results. He can be reached via call or text at (619) 701-1100 or e-mail at prentice@detailingprogress.com.